The wiring behind your walls was sized for a different house.
Most homes we work on run far more than they were wired for. Rewiring is not one job — it runs from replacing a handful of unsafe circuits to pulling every conductor in the building. The first thing we do is tell you which one you actually need.
A home wired in the 1980s or 90s typically got a couple of general-purpose circuits per floor and nothing dedicated. Now the kitchen has a microwave, an air fryer, and a coffee machine on one of them, there's a home office at the end of the hall, and a car charging in the garage. The wire is sound. There simply isn't enough of it.
Two-prong outlets with nowhere to ground
Older branch circuits were run without an equipment grounding conductor. That's why the outlets have two slots. Surge protectors plugged into them don't do the job they were bought for, because the path they divert energy to isn't there — and swapping in a three-prong receptacle doesn't create one.
Wiring that has aged past its rating
Knob-and-tube, cloth-sheathed cable, and aluminum branch circuits all fail in their own way — embrittled insulation that sheds when disturbed, connections that loosen and heat at the terminations. These are also the findings insurers increasingly ask about at renewal and inspectors flag during a sale.
Section 3.0 — The solution
Our approach, in one paragraph.
We start by finding out what is actually in the walls, because the answer changes the job completely. That means opening the panel, pulling a sample of devices, and looking where the wiring is visible — the attic, the crawlspace, the garage, the space behind the panel. From that we can tell you whether you are looking at a whole-home rewire, a partial rewire of the circuits that are genuinely unsafe or overloaded, or a handful of new dedicated circuits that solve the real complaint for a fraction of the cost. Most homes land in the middle, and we would rather say that than sell the largest version of the job. Where a rewire is warranted, we route new conductors through attics, crawlspaces, closets, and existing chases wherever they exist, so the wall damage is limited to specific access points rather than the whole surface. Rewiring is permitted electrical work, so we file the permit, meet the inspector, and hand back closed paperwork. American Electric Co holds an active CSLB C-10 electrical contractor license, #938027.
Section 3.5 — Specifications
Sized for your home.
What is behind your walls depends largely on when the house was wired, and each type raises a different question. Age alone does not condemn wiring.
What's in the wall
Typical era
What it means today
Knob-and-tube
Pre-1950
No equipment ground; insulation embrittles with age
Cloth-sheathed cable
1950s–1960s
Sheathing cracks and sheds; frequently ungrounded
Aluminum branch circuits
Mid-1960s–early 1970s
Terminations loosen and heat; needs an approved repair
Grounded copper NM
1970s–1990s
Sound wire, too few circuits for how homes run now
Modern copper NM
2000s onward
Usually a circuit-count question, not a rewire
What matters is the condition of the insulation, whether an equipment ground is present, and whether the circuit count matches how the house is actually used. Two homes of the same age can need very different work. We look before we recommend.
Section 5.0 — Peace of mind protocol · 5 steps
From first call to lifelong protection.
1
Find out what is actually in the walls
We open the panel, pull a sample of receptacles and switches, and inspect the runs that are visible from the attic, crawlspace, or garage. Wiring type, grounding, splice condition, and circuit count all come out of that — and all four change the scope.
2
Scope it honestly: partial or whole-home
You get the findings with photos and a written scope that separates what is unsafe, what is merely undersized, and what is fine. If a partial rewire plus two dedicated circuits solves the actual problem, that is what we quote.
3
Permit and plan the access
We file the electrical permit with the authority that covers your address, then map the routing before anything is opened — through attics, crawlspaces, closets, and existing chases wherever they exist, so the access points are chosen rather than discovered.
4
Pull, terminate, and test
New conductors are run to each device, boxes are set and made accessible, and every termination is torqued to specification. Circuits are labeled at the panel and tested under load. Where the panel cannot carry the finished circuit count, we say so before the walls are closed, not after.
5
Inspection, patching, and closed paperwork
We schedule and accompany the inspection, resolve any correction items, and patch the access points we opened. You end up with a labeled panel, a documented permit, and wiring that matches how the house is used. CSLB #938027 — verifiable at cslb.ca.gov.
Section 6.0 — Questions · 6 entries
Questions worth answering.
The symptoms that actually mean something are specific. Two-prong outlets throughout, a panel with no room and no dedicated circuits, breakers that trip on the same circuit no matter what you change, warmth or discoloration at a receptacle or switch plate, lights that dim noticeably when a large appliance starts, or a burning smell you cannot locate. Any one of those is worth a look. What does not tell you much is the age of the house on its own — a 1975 home with grounded copper and a modernized panel can be in better shape than a 1995 home that has had three additions bolted onto the original circuits. The only reliable answer comes from looking at the wiring itself.
Almost never, and this is the single biggest misconception about the work. Most homes have usable pathways that were already there — attic space above the ceiling, a crawlspace or basement below the floor, closets, and existing chases and conduit runs. We route new conductors through those and open the wall only at specific access points: device boxes, corners where a run has to change direction, and anywhere a fire block or a solid header stops a pull. On a single-story house with an accessible attic, the visible work is often limited to the boxes themselves. Two-story homes with finished ceilings and no crawlspace are the harder case, and we tell you that at the assessment rather than after demolition has started.
It is the original method used in American homes into the 1940s: individual conductors run through porcelain tubes where they pass through framing and supported on porcelain knobs elsewhere, with no cable sheath and no equipment grounding conductor. Undisturbed and correctly loaded, it can still be intact after a century. The problems are what has happened to it since. The rubber-and-cloth insulation embrittles and falls away when the wire is moved. It was designed to shed heat into open air, so being buried under modern attic insulation works against it. Decades of splices and extensions have usually been added by people who were not electricians. And it cannot ground anything. We do not condemn it on sight — we look at its condition, its loading, and what has been added to it, and give you that assessment rather than a verdict based on the year alone.
Not on its own — that gives you an outlet that accepts a grounded plug while providing no ground, which is worse than the two-prong outlet because it hides the problem. There are two legitimate remedies for an ungrounded circuit. The first is to run an equipment grounding conductor to it, which is the real fix and is often part of a rewire. The second, which the code permits specifically for this situation, is to protect the circuit with a GFCI — either a GFCI receptacle at that location or one feeding it — and to label the receptacle as GFCI-protected with no equipment ground. That gives you shock protection and a legal three-prong outlet, but it still does not provide the ground path that surge protectors and some sensitive equipment require. We will tell you which of the two makes sense for your house and what each involves.
Aluminum branch-circuit wiring was used widely in homes built between roughly the mid-1960s and the early 1970s, and the concern is real but specific: it is at the connections, not along the length of the wire. Aluminum expands and contracts more than copper with temperature, and it forms a resistive oxide layer at exposed surfaces. Over years of heating and cooling, terminations at receptacles, switches, and splices work loose, resistance rises, and the connection heats. The remedy follows from that. Every termination has to be made with a method rated for aluminum — approved connectors installed to specification — or the branch circuits have to be replaced with copper. Full replacement is the more permanent answer, but treating the terminations is a recognized repair and is often the proportionate one. We inspect the terminations before recommending either. Note that aluminum service-entrance and feeder conductors are a different subject entirely and are still standard, code-compliant practice today.
Yes. Replacing or adding branch circuits is permitted electrical work in California, and the permit matters beyond compliance — an inspected, closed permit is what documents the work for an appraiser, a buyer, or an insurer later on. Which office issues it depends on your address. Homes in our Santa Clarita territory permit through the City of Santa Clarita Building & Safety Division; homes in the Valley Glen territory fall under the City of Los Angeles and permit through LADBS, whose requirements differ. Unincorporated LA County addresses go through the county. We confirm which authority applies to your address before anything is filed, and we file it, schedule the inspection, and see the permit through to sign-off. Our hours are Monday through Saturday, 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM at both locations.